from shala to sea
Heart Unbound Retreat Kea, Greece: A collaboration between Flora and Emma
When Flora invited me along to her yoga retreat in Kea it wasn’t too hard to accept! Flora leads yoga practices for guests on my swimming retreats so I had a good idea of how wonderful it might be. I can honestly say it far surpassed my (already high!) expectations.
Kalimera! My five day adventure began when taxi driver, Pantos, picked me up just outside Athens to take me to the port of Lavrio where I would meet the rest of the group to take the ferry over to Kea. One of the first things Pantos asked me was whether I would like to stop en route to pick up a coffee and a pastry. (If you know me at all, you’ll know I love my morning coffee!) We stopped at a charming little bakery near the ferry port and Pantos insisted on paying for it! That warm welcome set the tone for the days ahead.
The island of Kea After an hour’s ferry ride across the Aegean Sea, Kea’s rugged hills rise sharply from the sea and remind me of home. At 50 square miles Kea is one of the larger islands in the Cyclades but unlike its neighbours, it is not volcanic. The landscape was shaped mainly by tectonic activity and erosion and is made up of ancient metamorphic rocks creating fertile land.
Arrival Our retreat is on the east of the island where we are met by Dora who has come in a four wheel drive (a standard car won’t cope with the rough track down to the resort!). Dora speaks fluent English and effortlessly blends professionalism with the warmest of welcomes.
On arrival a drink of mountain tea is waiting for us – it’s light and comforting and one we come to drink most afternoons. Dora gives us a tour of the grounds pointing out an abundance of rosemary, thyme, oregano and basil growing wild among the prolific olive trees. She tells us they have their own goats, sheep and bees too.
Around the pool are loungers, huge beanbags with rattan coverings and lots of quiet corners to read or reflect. Dora pointed out that the staff are very sociable but will leave you in peace if they find you in these quiet areas.
In the communal dining area there were bottles of all sorts of herb-infused oils and vermouths, local honey and marmalade and a huge ceramic pot of sea salted olives. Their Ouzo collection was quite impressive!
Exquisite ‘cave dwellings’ When we were shown to our rooms, each of us felt we had “the best one,” which says a lot about the care in their design. “The roof”, Dora tells me, “is 400 years old”. Inside there were thoughtful touches like an espresso machine and almond biscuits (both topped up daily) and a crocheted blanket that would come in handy in the late afternoons. Outside, we had our own private lounge area with hot shower! Others stayed further up the mountain and were rewarded with spectacular views.
Island rhythm Just before sunrise each day we made our way to the yoga shala, an airy space overlooking the sea. Sunrise was always a spectacular display of colours from dusky pinks to burnt oranges splattering across the sky. The morning sun was deliciously warm on our faces. Breakfast was yoghurt, local cheeses, omelette stuffed full of vegetables and homemade bread that tasted like cake fresh out of the oven.
After breakfast some of us went for a swim where the water was turquoise in the shallows turning into a cobalt blue as it got deeper. The blue reminded me of The Big Blue, a film that first ignited my passion for the sea. Underwater teemed with mackerel and sardines; and comical flounder fish lie perfectly still on the seabed, opening one eye every now and again to check you are still there before flicking away in a puff of gold-dusted sand.
Lunch was at 2pm and mezze dishes adorned the buffet table. More lovely bread accompanied roasted vegetable dishes, herb-marinated cucumber, beetroot hummus and tzatziki. In the afternoons we practised techniques like meditation and visualisation, painted and swam some more.
Dinner was a shared affair with Thespina always delivering the dishes to our table with the biggest smile. We enjoyed local fish, spanakopita and the most delicious desserts. My favourite was a caramelised cookie with cardamom vanilla ice cream.
After dinner we retired to the lounge next to a roaring fire and usually one of the cats, Belen, would settle next to Flora’s pregnant belly (they just know don’t they!)
Swimming The prevailing northerly winds made for some exciting waves and the group enjoyed some guided swims out to the headland and exploring with snorkels and dive masks. Seeing Flora’s bump rising out of the water as she laid on her back and looked up at the sky was something special. Weightlessness in water provides such comfort when you’re pregnant. Taking Jacqui with me into the big blue was also special – I felt she drew so much comfort from being in the sea. It is quite a privilege taking people sea swimming and I never take that trust for granted.
Friendship We were a group of women at different stages of life coming together over a shared love of yoga, the sea and in need of some restorative time. There was something deeply reassuring in recognising that we are all walking the same path just at different times. We can learn and share stories about our journeys. Those differences became a quiet thread of connection.
The Greek warmth that bookended it all! Pantos, the same taxi driver who’d greeted me days earlier, was waiting at the port with a coffee and croissant in hand. A fitting close to several days defined by generosity, warmth and friendship.
