Wild swimming retreats, a haven for women seeking deeper connections

BY FREYA BROMLEY for Conde Nast Traveller

18 January 2025

The first wild swimming retreat I did was in Cornwall. It was back in 2020 when swim stays were not quite the phenomenon they are now. Once we’d settled in, the first thing we did was go around and share why we were there. I was immediately moved by the openness of the other guests. Responses varied from burnout and heartbreak to redundancy, grief or simply needing a rest. It seemed that everyone had arrived at a crossroads in their life or, more likely, a desire for there to be a crossroads. Although the catalyst for attending a week-long swimming trip was different for each of us, we were united in being ready for change and hopeful for connection. We were all looking for an opportunity to take a different path, and what better way to take that first step than leaping into the water? It’s a perfect metaphor, really – diving, plunging, cleansing.

When we’re waterside, we’re far from our usual uniforms of clothing, profession, and status. This is a big part of what allows such a beautiful in-person connection – there’s no hiding. We’re stripped back, both literally and metaphorically. I was in the depths of grief at its most painful stage and, up to that point, had mostly hidden my emotions beneath the surface. But there was something freeing about the quiet, contemplative nature of the retreat. It meant I had the time and space to open up, be more honest about what I was going through, and embrace the freedom to talk and cultivate genuine connections with those around me instead of shutting down and keeping my thoughts and feelings inside. Within moments, I immediately formed a connection with a fellow swimmer – an experience I can only truly describe as love at first sight. Across the rest of the retreat, we became fast friends.

After this first retreat, we started going on more and more swimming trips together. These adventures sparked my decision to swim in every tidal pool in Britain – which, in turn, became the focus for my first book, a story of swimming and sisterhood titled The Tidal Year.

Searching for this kind of genuine companionship can be tough in an increasingly online world where many of us feel lonelier than ever. There’s a growing cynicism surrounding online connections. Going back to basics and making friends through shared interests and activity-based events can be a great way to meet people – as shown by the increased interest in running clubs as replacements for dating apps. Water is a wonderful way to meet people – swimming is good exercise, often done in the great outdoors, and there’s the allure of a warming cuppa and slice of cake afterwards.

Swimming is one of the only sports where women outperform men. Studies have shown women excel long-distance due to better buoyancy, metabolic efficiency and resilience, as well as benefiting from the physiological advantages of cold-water exposure. Potentially, as a result of this, wild swimming communities are often primarily women – some retreats are advertised as women only. Still, even if they’re not, they end up with mostly female guests. It’s not that they set out to be exclusive but rather nurture the desire to reflect, open up and find deeper connections.

Beyond the health benefits and opportunity to meet new people, a final and arguably most important reason why these retreats are so wonderful is that swimming holidays are true holidays. Life is busy; we’re all burnt out. A swim stay offers the ultimate excuse to escape. You simply cannot reply to emails, answer phone calls or make to-do lists while you’re in the water. At many of these retreats, the itinerary, meals and transportation are sorted for you. All you need to do is show up, and every decision is taken care of. Now that’s a real holiday.

Wild Hebridean Swimming, Scotland

If you’re looking to swim somewhere off-the-beaten path, then the sea lochs, waterfalls and hidden coves of the Hebrides await. Retreat founder and local guide Emma MacDonald guides guests through this breathtaking destination. Winter retreats enjoy darker skies, log burners and the affectionately known ‘Pottie Hottie’, where you alternate between quick dips in Loch Pottie and the wood-fired hot tub. Whereas if you join in April your trip coincides with the Mull Folk Music Festival and, if you’re lucky, the first sounds of the corncrake signalling the arrival of Spring.

I spoke to Emma, who said she’s “constantly amazed and thankful to see how our retreats have such a positive impact on our guests. Everyone has a story, whether it’s caring for someone at home, bringing up children with challenging needs or recovering from illness. Everyone finds such comfort and solace with the group when they’re in the water.” A relaxed atmosphere means there are no forced conversations or activities. There’s always a diverse mix of people, and Emma said that after the trip, the women will often start a WhatsApp group, sharing pictures of their swims and meeting up.